I will admit it, when I first tried free motion machine embroidery it alternately made me want to scream with rage and roll up into the foetal position and weep. I just couldn't figure it out - until I discovered these five key things:
1. Buy a free motion machine embroidery or darning foot for your machine
The first time I used a darning foot on my machine while free motion machine embroidering I almost stood up from my machine and sang the Hallelujah chorus. The investment is so worth it. Darning feet work so well because they let the fabric move freely, but at the same time help to control it. Believe me, you want one.
2. Metallic threads are hard to work with - use them in the bobbin only
Metallic threads are pretty. They are sparkly. I love the way they look on the spool, but they are tricky to use. I've tried using special metallic needles and large doses of Sewers Aid, but the thread always seems to break. I can only seem to use metallic threads if I use them in the bobbin only. Then it works a treat.
3. Use an embroidery hoop to hold fabric taut or use Sulky Ultra Solvy dis-solvable stabiliser
Your fabric needs to be stabilised and held very taut as you sew so try to ensure that you are either using an embroidery hoop (with the lip of the hoop facing up and the fabric flat on the bed of the sewing machine) or a very strong stabiliser. Stabilisers like Sulky Ultra Solvy are also great if you want to be left with just the stitching to create a sort of lace effect.
4. Invest in decent threads
It took me a while to find the threads that worked best in my machine. I like Rayon threads that are made especially for machine embroidery. Don't try using regular polyester thread as your machine will get gummed up.
5. Make sure you drop or cover your feed dogs
The feed dogs are those metal teeth that push or feed your fabric through the sewing machine at a set rate, giving you a consistent stitch length. For free motion machine embroidery you must either drop them or cover them (consult your machine's manual for how to do this for your machine) so that you can move the fabric freely around at the rate you decide.
What if you machine does not allow you to drop or cover the feed dogs? Alma Stoller shows a clever way to get the same results with a very basic machine in this tutorial.
Want an overview of how to free motion machine embroider? Try this free tutorial from Cut Out and Keep.
I hope these tips get you singing the Hallelujah Chorus!
Metallic threads. I was reading somewhere, can't remember where that the metallic thread needs to come off the centre of the reel.
Sewing thread usually come off the end of the reel and if you do the same with metallic it twists and breaks. I think that all that is required is to have the cotton reel standing up instead of lying down.
Wish I could remember where I read this.
Thank you again for all the tips and links you give us.
Joan
Posted by: joan ramsauer | June 21, 2009 at 05:21 AM
Great tips! I've FMQ with metallic threads and finally got to a point where the thread didn't break often. I used a metallic needle (it has a larger groove in the needle shank so that the thread won't rub, plus a larger eye). There's also a separate thread stand that's much taller than the sewing machine so that the metallic thread has time to unkink from being tightly wound on the spool. Then I try not to move the fabric as quickly as I'd move it for regular threads. Give that a try and see if you have better luck with it in the top vs. only the bobbin. :-)
Posted by: Lemon Tree Tami | June 19, 2009 at 05:59 PM