Rainbow Dolls had our monthly meeting at Rainbow Silks in Great Missenden, Bucks last Thursday. Mavis and I teamed up to deliver a demo on using fabric grain in doll making. I presented on grain in woven fabrics and Mavis presented some fabulous examples on using grain, or more accurately stretch, in knit fabrics (I am somewhat knit-challenged, so her part was a boon to me).
First off, I showed this rather unfortunate twisted torso example.
The twist in the torso is caused by the fabric being off grain. 'Off grain' means that the warp (lengthwise thread) and the weft (crosswise threads) have become skewed, instead of being perpendicular to each other. This often happens with cheaper fabrics (in my experience), but can happen in any type of woven fabric. Ever had a pair of trousers or jeans where the side seams of the pant leg keeps twisting to the front? That's because the trousers were cut off grain. Once it's sewn there is nothing you can do about it. So how do you keep your dolls from looking like they're pulling a Chubby Checker?
Check all your fabrics before you start cutting and sewing. Here is a handy free guide on how to check and straighten your grain lines.
We then moved on to talking about how to use grain lines to your greatest advantage when laying out doll patterns on woven fabrics. Most commonly, doll body parts are laid out with the straight of grain running along the length of the body part. However, this is not the case for head patterns which are often cut on the bias. The bias is the stretchiest portion of the fabric (as it lies at a 45 degree angle to the warp and weft threads). The stretchiness of the bias allows doll makers to introduce some more shape and curve to faces. When we stuff cheeks they stretch out and accommodate more stuffing if the head is bias cut, so your face looks more like this:
Instead of this:
Of course you might be going for this kind of look if you're, I don't know, creating a doll of a cadaver, or a supermodel whose only eaten one blueberry for the whole week, or maybe a tribute to Modigliani. It is just a matter of what you want to achieve look-wise. Incidentally, you can create this sunken cheek look by laying the straight of grain down the length of the head. (Yes, I know, I have no shame...)
Even though body parts are often cut on the straight of grain, there are no hard and fast rules. I took an Angela Jarecki class where we laid several body parts on the bias. The body was very thin and boyish, so the bias helped to flesh her out a bit. I've seen bias used in a Betts Vidal pattern where the dress was beautifully cut on the bias to achieve a drapey look. One thing to watch out for is the two piece arm or leg. Antonette Cely explains why in this video. I know, I've shown it before, but if you missed it, here it is again, the bit on grain is invaluable:
Just keep in mind, that bias will stretch so only use it if you are after that effect. Don't use it if you need to keep a consistent shape or a thin shape.
Most patterns will indicate with an arrow where the designer would advise putting the grain. To get it in the right place, simply line up the arrow with the straight of grain (which will always be parallel to the selvedge).
Knits are a whole other knit and caboodle (groan...couldn't resist). Mavis explained how different knits have such different level of stretch. They may stretch in both directions (like Dolskin) or in only one (like Doesuede). The choice of which knit you pick will drastically change the size and character of the doll. Plus, the direction you choose to place the greatest stretch will also affect the size and shape of the doll. Mavis made several examples using this free doll house miniature baby pattern.
The first baby from the left has the greatest stretch running width-wise across the body, baby 2 has the greatest stretch running length-wise on the body and babies 3 and 4 have the greatest stretch running across the 'bias' or diagonal across the body. What a difference, huh?
Mavis also gave these hints:
SEWING STRETCHY (Knit/Jersey) FABRICS
1. Clean your sewing machine before starting.
2. Use a new ball-point (Jersey) needle.
3. Use Stitch ‘n’ Tear to stop fabric being dragged into the feed dogs.
4. You may need to loosen either or both top & bobbin tensions – experiment first on a scrap of waste cloth.
5. Use very small stitches, and an open-toe appliqué foot (if your machine has one).
6. The line of greatest stretch is usually used with your pattern length ways. BUT it is always interesting to try the other way, to see what will happen.
And those demos weren't enough, we had show and tell too. Maureen brought a double sided goddess and a head (whose portraits are sadly blurry). New member Sue brought her vintage angel and rabbit.
Mavis brought this sculpted head that she did in a workshop.
I brought my Soul Whisperer.
And Jill brought her gorgeous self.
Next month we will be exploring different types of doll joints. The month after we will be looking at how to give dolls an open mouth expression. Interested in coming along? E-mail me for more info.
